Finding The Proper Fit For Climbing Shoes

No Pain, No Pain

If The Shoe Fits . . . Climb With It!

by Tim Ryan

Publication Date: July 1996

Your buddy at the climbing gym tells you to buy the same size as your street shoes. Johnny Pullhard at the local climbing shop insists that you size down at least three sizes. You want the footwork of a pro, but you don't want your toenails to turn black and fall off. How tight do your climbing shoes need to fit? Only as tight as you want them.

Whether you're buying your first, or fifteenth, pair of climbing shoes, the rule is the same: buy the shoe that feels right on your foot. Climbing shoes are designed to be worn somewhere between snug and exceptionally tight. This ensures a good feel for the rock and the ability to concentrate a large amount of weight onto a relatively small area. How tight the shoes should be depends on what type of climbing you plan to do and your own tolerance for discomfort. The biggest mistake anyone can make is getting a pair of shoes that are simply too painful to put on.

Most climbing shoes can handle a variety of rock and climbing situations, so get the best one for your foot. Keep in mind that a great fitting all-around shoe will work better than a poorly fit specialized shoe. Also, sizing guidelines, whether from an expert or an amateur, or the ones you read here, are just guidelines. Your foot will be in the shoe, go with the one you like.

Your first step should be to decide on the type of climbing shoe that you want. Then, select all the models that fit into the category and begin to try them on. Shoes are built around different forms called lasts. Lasts are models of the human foot that give shape to the shoe. If the last has a shape similar to your foot, then chances are you'll like the way it feels.

Other factors also play a part in the fit of a shoe. Whether a shoe is board-lasted or slip-lasted will affect the fit. Generally, board-lasted shoes tend to feel flatter and stiffer, while slip-lasted shoes fit tighter and conform to the foot more. Stretch is also a consideration. Unlined shoes will stretch more than lined shoes, and in both cases, the break-in period should be factored into how you would like the shoe to fit in the end.

Shoes for beginners, alpine or multi-pitch routes and any climbing where you need to keep your shoes laced for hours at a time, should be fit about one size below your foot size. High performance, all-around and crack climbing shoes are best worn around one-and-a-half to two sizes below your normal shoe size. Unlined shoes and slippers for sport climbing, bouldering and any situation where you can conveniently remove the shoes, should be sized at least two sizes down. Remember, these sizing recommendations may not work for your feet, go with the shoe that feels best on your foot.