I'd Rather Be Indoor Climbing?

I'd Rather Be Indoor Climbing?

by Jaimee Blocksom

Publication Date: June 1996

With the sudden outbreak of climbing gyms across the country, it seems that many people are becoming aware of the benefits of indoor training. However, some beginners and die-hard outdoors-people may not realize the full potential of these indoor havens. What do they offer besides the obvious controlled climate? Well, read on for a long list of reasons to turn away from the rocks and on to the plywood and plastic.

A good gym should have well-defined and displayed safety policies as well as specific guidelines that must be met before belaying (tie-ins, knots, belay device, daisy chain). Staff should test your belay ability regardless of how well you climb and should offer advice or classes on proper belaying technique if you are unsure how to belay correctly.

Gyms allow people to get their first taste of climbing in a safe atmosphere. Since gyms rent out equipment, climbers can save a lot of money in the beginning while testing different shoes and other necessities until they know what they are looking for. Indoor climbing also requires less equipment, making it much more economical.

Indoor gyms are the safest place for learning about climbing. Most gyms offer free basic instruction with equipment rental, and staff are usually more than happy to answer questions by climbers. The top ropes are already set up, which saves both time and energy. The holds at gyms are much more obvious, and thus makes learning foot and hand placement much easier. My favorite thing to do at a gym is to sit back and watch the more experienced climbers. You can learn new techniques, while making friends and resting from your previous climb.

Another big bonus is the atmosphere in most gyms. The setup of gyms usually facilitates group camaraderie, and it is not uncommon to have everyone in the gym watching, and encouraging, a lone climber making way toward the top of the wall. Having a room full of people cheering you on can do wonders for your climbing esteem. Such situations can also improve motivation during the crux, or hardest part of the climb.

Indoor gyms allow you to make huge strength gains in shorter times, as any moves or conditions can be simulated. Gyms allow climbers to train specifically, whether for power, endurance, or on-sighting. You can also recreate the hardest moves of a particular route inside the gym and practice until these moves become second nature. By eliminating the long hikes between routes, you can fit in more climbs in one day, and thus increase your endurance. An eight-hour day at the crag can provide the same climbing opportunities as a two hour stint at your local gym

It is important to realize that while you may flash a 5.10 indoor, it does not necessarily translate into ability outdoors, where 5.9 might be more reasonable. Such differences are caused by the visibility of indoor holds, the added risk outside, and the more difficult terrain of real rock. Talk to the staff at your gym about ways to ease the transition to outdoor climbing before you attempt it.