Climbing Harnesses

Climbing Harnesses

Publication Date: December 2000

A harness forms a vital link between the climber, the rope, and the rest of the protection chain. Besides this primary purpose, harnesses can provide a place to rack gear and serve as a belay seat when required. An understanding of this design, fit, selection and care of climbing harnesses is crucial to reducing the risks associated with their use in climbing situations.

Design

Climbing harnesses come in three basic designs: one-piece wrap-around "seats," diapers, and swami belts with leg loops.

Seat harnesses generally use a continuous loop of webbing for both waist and leg loops. This design "wraps" around you, and because these harnesses are one-piece, they are the easiest type to put on. Seat harnesses aren't commonly padded and the spacing between the leg loops and waist belt (the "rise") isn't adjustable in front, making them more difficult to properly fit.

Diaper harnesses have a waist belt, but you pull a webbing loop up through the crotch from behind to form the leg loops. Diaper harnesses allow the leg loops to adjust several inches, so you can wear them either in winter over thick clothing or in summer with tights or shorts. Most diaper harnesses are further suited for winter and alpine use because you can drop the leg loops, keeping the independent waist belt tied securely to the rope to don or shed clothing or heed calls of nature. Diaper harnesses may not be as comfortable as harnesses with individual leg loops or full padding.

Swami (waist) belts with leg loops are the most common and usually the most comfortable harnesses. They consist of two pieces: a waist belt (with buckle or tie closure) and leg loops. Separate components allow the harness to ride correctly and comfortably by allowing both rear and front rises to be adjusted. If swami belts and leg loops are available, they can also be sized more precisely for a specific climber's anatomy. For further comfort most swami belts and leg loops are padded.

Waist closures. Harnesses with full-strength buckles joining the swami or waist belt are easier to get in and out of than "tie-in" harnesses, where the climbing rope or a short piece of webbing threads through the belt and leg loops to join them. Buckles do add weight, however, and if the webbing isn't doubled back through the buckle, the harness can come apart - a potential fatal occurrence.

Buckled harnesses simplify belaying and rappelling by virtue of having either a belay/rappel loop permanently fixed to the harness, or by allowing you to clip a large locking carabiner through the front portion of the belt and leg loops. With tied harnesses, a sling must be threaded through the attachment points to provide a clip-in point for the belay/rappel carabiners - a difficult maneuver when hanging at belay stances.

Fit

Even the most carefully designed and cushioned harness won't be comfortable if it is too big or small, nor will it be secure. If a harness is too tight, it will restrict movement and pinch. A loose harness slips and chafes, and worse yet, in an inverted fall, you could slip out of it.

When fitting a harness, wear the clothing you intend to climb in. If this isn't convenient, make sure you empty your pants' pockets, remove belts, and unstuck shirts or sweaters before trying on a harness.

Waist and swami belts should be cinched snugly above the hip bones, but not so tightly as to interfere with your breathing; they should be impossible to pull down. With buckled belts, follow the manufacturer's instructions about doubling the webbing through the buckle. Tied swamis should have a one-to-three inch gap between the two attachment points.

Fit leg loops tight but without binding you. If you can barely squeeze a hand between the leg loop and your thigh, the fit is properly correct.

Diaper harnesses usually adjust by several inches in the legs, so fitting the waist belt is your primary concern. All diaper harnesses buckle at the waist, so follow the preceding sizing instruction for buckled waist belts.

Be especially careful when fitting a seat harness. If sized too large, these harnesses can slide up onto your lower ribs, compressing your diaphragm and leaving you gasping for air. When worn too small they can compress your hips and legs, reducing mobility. You should have a minimum of one inch and a maximum of two inches between the tie-in loops. When in doubt, err on the small side.

Selection

Sport/competition. These harnesses are lightweight and highly maneuverable. Most harnesses of this type have minimal frills, and since they are made from narrow webbing and are scantily padded, are only moderately comfortable.

Multipurpose. Used for every climbing function- from redpointing testpieces to multipitch free routes, all-purpose harnesses are what most people climb in. Top-end designs have belay/rappel loops. racking systems with three well-placed gear loops, buckled waist belts, adjustable or elasticized rear risers, and full padding, and still weigh under one pound.

Big-wall/aid. Here comfort should be your main guide. You spend a lot of time belaying on wall climbs, so consider a belay/rappel loop a necessity. Racking loops help prevent overly heavy shoulder slings. A full-strength haul loop is also handy by serving as a tie-in point for the haul rope - in the unlikely event your lead rope breaks or is cut in two in a fall, the haul rope can catch you. And finally, harnesses with trim, uncluttered tie-in areas make attaching daisy chains easier.

Alpine. In alpine climbing, weight is everything. Most alpine harnesses take an ascetic's approach by doing without heavy frills such as padding and wide webbing, although some have padded waist belts, allowing them to cross over into rock climbing. Other characteristics in a good alpine harness include removable leg loops that let you remain tied to the rope when you attend to nature, add or shed a layer of clothing, and put the harness on while wearing skis or crampons.

Tying In

Thread the rope through all tie-in points according to the manufacturer's directions; never tie in to the belay/rappel loop, equipment loops, or rear haul loop. Don't use the rear haul loop, even if it's full-strength, as an anchor point.

On buckled harnesses, check that the webbing joining the two halves of the waist belt is passed back through the buckle according to the manufacturer's directions. Double-check your tie-in knot and secure the loose end with a half-hitch or overhand knot before leaving the ground.

Develop a system for putting on and tying into your harness. For example, put on your harness, tie or buckle the waist loop, thread the rope through all tie-in points, complete the knot, and back it up in the same sequence every time to avoid errors. Concentrate on what you're doing - don't be distracted by conversation with your partner and forget to finish your knot.

Finally, check your knots and buckle frequently while climbing and belaying to make sure they haven't loosened.

Care

Retire a harness when it shows signs of wear such as fading or abrasion, or after it has held a severe fall. As your harness gets used, the webbing will get fuzzy at the tie-in points. This is OK. Be suspicious, though, of wear to the stitching or excessive wear to the tie-in points.

Protect your harness from direct sunlight and heat and from nylon-damaging substances such as acids, alkalies, oxidizing agents and bleach. If a harness becomes dirty, you can wash it in cool water with a mild soap. Allow it to dry in a shaded area.

Check your harness periodically to make sure the stitching is intact. Under normal weekend use, a harness should last about two years. You can extend the life of your harness by working the rope back through the tie-in points gently when untying - forceful pulling causes these points to abrade quickly.

Taken from the Climbing Sports Group of the Outdoor Recreational Coalition of America.