Rock Climbing In Joshua Tree National Park

Tree Climbing

by Adam Chambers

Publication Date:

Joshua Tree National Park is located in South/Central California about two hours east of Los Angeles. The park is situated in the arid mountainous region where the Colorado Desert and Mojave Desert meet. This geographic location makes for a wonderful, high desert landscape with mountains, cactus-riddled flat lands, and most importantly rocks, BIG ROCKS, and tons of them.

The rocks at Joshua Tree are arranged in interesting, large piles and are composed of quartz monzonite. Quartz monzonite is a very rough stone with tiny shards of quartz protruding above the surface. These giant piles of rocks have wonderful cracks, huecos and imperfections in them that produce world-class climbing routes and endless bouldering challenges. In January, I had the opportunity to visit the place that climbers from all over the world consider Mecca. An experience that I plan to repeat on an annual basis.

My trip to Joshua Tree began as most of my trips begin, with much stress and preparation in order to go on an adventure (not a vacation). I like to refer to these trips as adventures and not vacations. A vacation is sitting around a pool at some overpriced hotel in Florida. Adventure on the other hand is living out of a tent, feasting on Ramen and enjoying more challenge than can ever be found at the Marriott.

In adventure travel there are multiple challenges, and my first challenge was to pack a 2400 cubic inch capacity backpack with at least 5000 cubic inches of gear. I'm no rocket scientist (actually an environmental engineer by trade), but this problem was just not going to work according to some quick subtraction performed on a scratch piece of cardboard that I ripped off a cereal box. Not believing my calculations, I gave it a good faith effort, and sure enough, it didn't fit. I packed and unpacked, then repacked with less gear, then unpacked again, looking seriously at each piece of clothing or camping gear as I placed it back into my backpack. Again, the pack overflowed onto my living-room floor. Hmmm, I thought, then unpacked once again, discarded all of my underwear, packed one pair of socks, a toothbrush, one longsleave T-shirt, a pair of shorts and the rest was camping or climbing gear. Tadah!...feeling like a combination between Houdini and Merlin the Magician, I had performed the impossible - I had managed to get all of my gear into one small backpack. Sure it was stressing every thread at every seam, but my backpack would pass as carry-on luggage. My bicycle was the only piece of luggage that would need to be checked.

I put my mountain bike in a box, partially assembled. This would allow me to transport the bike on the airplane. Once I arrived at my destination, I would assemble the bicycle, place the box in a recycling bin (remember I'm an environmental engineer), and be on my trek to Joshua Tree for some premium climbing.

With the bike and camping gear packed, all I needed was to finish my last day at work and get to the airport. After dashing out of a meeting, I caught a ride to the airport with my girlfriend, got my bike checked through without a fee (airlines charge a fee of $30-$70 for shipping bicycles). However, if you tell them it's art, they will ship the same box for free. Feeling somewhat guilty for fibbing, I justified this lie by saying to myself that it was "bicycle art" - I'm sure the person that welded that frame considers it a piece of art.

So, the bike was checked and I was ready to find my gate and board the 'big aluminum-skinned bird' for sunny California. As I checked in at the gate, the lady informed me that the flight was overbooked and they were looking for people to take a bump (if you get bumped, you receive a $300 travel voucher). Instantly I jumped on this opportunity, and since I had no real plans, my schedule was flexible. I scored the voucher, got rerouted through Salt Lake and arrived 15 minutes later than initially planned. That was the fastest $300 I ever made.

I arrived in California in the late evening and reported directly to the baggage claim area to find my bicycle patiently waiting. It was all in one piece and anxious to get on the road. Since it was almost midnight by now, and I was in unfamiliar territory, I found a quiet corner in the airport and called it my hotel room for the night. I snuggled up and caught several hours of sleep before the floor buffers awoke me from my slumber. Unable to return to dreamland, I assembled my steed and rode off into the sunrise. Negotiating the streets of Los Angeles at 5:30 a.m. was definitely a challenge. I had all of my climbing gear on my back, and my tent and sleeping pad strapped onto the rack of my mountain bike. Appearing somewhat like a homeless transient, I ambled toward Joshua Tree National Park.

Fourteen hours and 132 miles later, I arrived at the town of Joshua Tree, which is six miles from the park entrance. Feeling like I had completed a full day, I treated myself to a hotel room. Desperately in need of a shower and some food other than Chocolate/Expresso-flavored Clif Bars, I treated myself to the luxury of Mexican food and a good night's sleep.

"Up with the sun, gone with the wind, I really think I am CRAZY" to quote a Bob Segar song, with my own variation, I got up early and stopped by the Circle K for some last minute groceries (10 packs of Ramen Soup and two gallons of water). Water is the most important requirement for entry into the park, as Joshua Tree National Park campgrounds do not have water. Since the park is in the high desert region, there is no surface water that can be purified for drinking. With the water strapped on either side of my bicycle rack like saddlebags, I ambled up to the park. It was a six mile trudge, all uphill to the park entrance. I arrived at the West Entrance to find a guard who charged me $5 for a seven-day pass, and camping is free within the park. That was the cheapest entry into an amusement park I had ever experienced - exactly 71.4 cents per day.

Continuing into the park, I felt as if I was in a Dr. Seusse story. There were weird, contorted trees covering this land. The trees were the famous Joshua Trees (Yucca brevifolia for all of you scientific types) for which the park is named.

Finally, I arrived at Hidden Valley Campground, the most visited campground by climbers. This would be basecamp for the next several days. Claiming a site between two Quartz Monzonite boulders, each the size of a small schoolbus, and possessing multiple problems, I set up camp. Once camp was assembled and my chores for the day were completed (30 minutes after arrival), it was time to check out the world famous bouldering.

Using the Bouldering Guide to Southern California by Craig Fry, I began exploring the plethora of bouldering opportunities within the campgrounds. Starting with the easy 5.8 and 5.9 boulder problems, I found enough challenge to keep me busy until the blanket of darkness had cast its cover on the stones. With several hours of orientation and working on boulder problems, I had developed quite a hunger. I fired up my camp stove and enjoyed a gourmet, one course meal of Ramen a la Soup.

After dinner, I meandered over to the next campsite where a fire was burning. Lured by the warmth of burning embers, I discussed climbing and adventure with a San Diego couple until the last log ceased to flame. We retired to our respective tents for the warmth of down. Worn out from a hard days work, I sawed logs until the night sky began to disappear.

Enjoying the pastel sunrise from the perch of a large boulder, I looked over the camp as it gained a new day's life. Each camp of climbers slowly began to rustle to the clicking of carabiners, the rattling of climbing gear, and the sounds of preparation for another day on the rock. As climbers departed the campsite for their favorite crag, the jingle of their rack could be heard as they walked out of the grounds. Some folks were headed for a favorite crack, others were off to tray a 5.13 face route, while others were headed to the longer multi-pitched routes. No matter where they were headed, one thing was sure, they should be enjoying a sun-filled day at Josh. As for me, I threw my shoes and chalkbag over my shoulder and headed for one of the most famous bouldering traverses in the park, 'Gunsmoke' - a 70-foot horizontal traverse rated 5.11. I was sure to get a workout.

While working out the sequence of this problem, I met one of the most accomplished climbers on this particular traverse - Bird Man. Unsure of his real name, I was told that the nickname was coined from a hawk that used to rest on his shoulder while he climbed. The hawk died, but his nickname stuck. Bird Man is a legend of Gunsmoke, as he holds the record for the most traverses across this route without stopping at 75. That is 75 times across and back vertical rock without coming off to stand on horizontal ground. That is an arm-pumping accomplishment.

I spent the majority of the day working on the sequence at Gunsmoke. There are a couple of crossovers and an important toe hook that are integral to completion of this problem. I returned to camp late in the afternoon as most climbing parties began making their way home for the evening. Everyone had a story to tell, or better yet, a glow of pride for nailing the crux of a difficult pitch. It was time to cook dinner, then sit around the campfire and tell stories of the day's climbing. Later we all retreated to our 'nylon palaces' for a night's rest as the howl of coyotes lulled us to sleep.

Early to bed, early to rise, allows for a full day of exercise! After enjoying the colorful sunrise and an energy bar, I bouldered the day away. The bouldering was great, but the rock took a toll on my finger tips. The abrasive qualities of the rock in Joshua Tree make for wonderful friction foot holds, but that same abrasive quality removes dermal layers by the inch. My fingers began to bleed by the end of the day. It was painful, but like an addict, I couldn't stop. I bouldered until darkness denied me sight, bloody fingers and all.

My last day in Joshua Tree was spent trying to finish a few boulder problems that had presented extreme challenge in the previous days. Some problems were completed, and some stumped my abilities once again. With so many boulders and so little time, I feel that I have unfinished business at Joshua Tree. I will return next winter for more challenging climbing while basking in the warm California sun.

The next day, I began my journey back to the civilian world of beepers, cell phones, mortgage payments, and food other than Ramen a la Carte. My stay in Joshua Tree was one that should be experienced by all avid climbers. The park is 'Open to Climbers,' that is a rarity in today's litigious society.