Trekking In Nepal

Trekking In Nepal

An Unforgettable Experience

by Grady S. Hanrahan

Publication Date: July 1998

The four-hour trek up the Khumbu glacier was nearly over as we could smell wood smoke emanating from the mountain lodges. Visibility was poor due to heavy snow, but we were able to see a faint outline of a small village. Appropriately named Gorak Shep, this village is the last true settlement before reaching Mt. Everest base camp. There were three lodges in total, each offering wooden bunks to sleep on and a tiny pot stove for warmth. Accommodation wasn't the most luxurious, but prices were cheap. After visiting each, my wife and I settled on the least crowded and secured our beds for the night. The lodge owner, a retired Sherpa who performed three successful ascents up Mt. Everest, offered us a typical Nepalese dish for dinner. This local delecacy consisted of lentils, carrots and potatoes all poured over a plate of rice. We then settled into our beds to rest for the next day's walk up Kala Patar, a 17,500 foot ridge offering a superb view of Everest.

We awoke to bitter cold as the temperature in the lodge fell to nearly zero degrees during the night. The dried yak dung used to fuel the stove had long burned out. However, the thought of seeing the world's highest peak sparked us to rise out of bed. Plus, the morning views are said to be much better due to the lack of cloud cover. We slipped our boots on, grabbed our water bottles, and began the ascent early to catch Mt. Everest illuminated by the morning sun.

The trail up Kala Patar was heavily covered with snow, making it a slow and treacherous walk. We relied on worn hiking boots since the thought of purchasing crampons didn't enter our minds. Luckily, we managed to follow the tracks of one individual who had just descended from the ridge. "What an amazing sight," he shouted while passing us. "How much further?" I asked. He simply smiled and carried on back to the village. We were a bit puzzled, but continued to march on. After twenty minutes we stopped for a quick breather and a fresh drink of water. An attempt was made to catch a glimpse of Everest, but we were not yet at the proper altitude for viewing.

What happened in the next fifteen minutes was absolutely spectacular. We reached the plateau feeling quite cold and exhausted. Our hands and feet were numb due to the frigid winter air. I had a pair of cloth garden gloves and my wife a pair of mittens. My rented down jacket would not zip properly and was missing the attachable hood. I was later able to receive a partial refund from the shop owner with some persuading.

These inconveniences became trivial after noticing a black peak through the thin stream of clouds. "Could that finally be Mt. Everest?" my wife asked. "It very well better be," I said in a labored tone. "I'm numb to the bone and hungry for a hot bowl of porridge." We flipped through the guide book for a picture of Everest. Eureka! It pictured Everest from nearly the same spot we were standing. From that vantage point we could see the top third of the mountain. Slowly, the sun began to rise and shine upon the massive peak. A truly incredible sight second to none. To celebrate, we opened the two chocolate bars bought at Gorak Shep and laboriously bit our way through the frozen delights.

Nothing prepares one for the excitement of seeing such a natural wonder for the first time. It cannot be fully explained in any travel or guide book on the market. We gazed at its beauty for an extended time and took numerous photographs to show loved ones and friends. We found ourselves continuoulsy looking back as we slowly made our way to the village. Other trekkers would ask about the view while venturing up the ridge. I didn't divulge much information since the answer would soon be obvious.

We spent twenty-one days total trekking the Everest region. This arduous journey began in lush, green forests and ended with a view of the grandest mountain in the world. The shear beauty and dimensions made it an unforgettable sight. I have told many stories about the experiences and shown photographs to anyone remotely interested. We will return to this spectacular region again in the future. Until then, sweet memories will exist.