Solving The Puzzle - Speed-Reading Comp Routes

Solving the puzzle

Speed-reading comp routes

by Tony Yaniro

Publication Date: December 1997

It's preview time-just a few short minutes to ingest your route du jour.

As you approach the wall, try to relax, and don't let yourself be rushed. Better to go through the route once effectively than twice ineffectively. Listen to everything the organizers have to say, then think to yourself, "Great, this is going to be fun! What do we get to do today?" Not "Ooo-maaan, this is going to be horrendous." Remember: the route has been designed to be climbable-at least nearly to the top. Don't let yourself get overwhelmed.

Read the route as you will encounter it during the climb: one piece at a time. Later you can develop a more refined strategy. Imagine yourself grabbing the starting hold and taking a deep relaxed breath.

Then smoothly proceed upward hold by hold, move by move, really feeling and visualizing the moves-even twisting your body and climbing "in the air" with your hands and feet. Don't forget to include the clip ping positions-and if they are not obvious, think of options.

If a move is unclear, think over several possibilities, then skim past the section until you come to a hold you are fairly sure of, such as: "I know I must get my right hand in that pocket." Then work back down in reverse from here to the unclear section. Don't forget that often you can switch or match hands and feet on holds, or that you can move the same hand more than once. Another often-missed move is to reach back down and undercling a hold you used maybe a few moves earlier as a pull. Often a hold that looks unusable may in fact be only an intermediate hold or a foothold. If the section is still unclear, continue your preview of the remainder of the climb. Often, a move that appeared very difficult from the ground turns out to not to be a problem. Don't spend most of your preview time focused on one move at the expense of the rest of the route. If you have time left, you can return to the question able section later.

Sometimes you can read the grabbing point on an unfamiliar hold by noting the chalked part of the hold. Pay attention to thumb prints.

There are many other subtle things to think about. Be sure that you don't miss seeing holds, especially possibly crucial ones in or around corners. Remember, too, that course-setters are over worked and don't spend extra time placing unnecessary holds on the wall. Also, look for "tick" marks (chalk trails) highlighting holds that are difficult to see, or helpful wall features. Note the direction of the tick marks as they are usually placed so that you are led to the hold from the proper previous position.

Usually route setters set a route with a few options, using extra footholds or intermediate hand holds to equalize for height differences. If you are tempted to skip holds other than intermediates, be sure it will not mess up your sequence for later.

As you read higher on the route, "feel" for places where the route may ease slightly, allowing you to relax and compose your self. Generally the route-setters are more careful to eliminate significant rests higher on the route than lower.

If you have time, go through the route again. Visualize doing the moves and relaxing every where possible.

When it's time to climb, move decisively and positively, smoothly and as quickly as comfortably possible. Timid, scared climbing just doesn't work. Be ready for moves that require rhythm changes, such as aggressive or dynamic moves, so you will not waste much energy balking. During your climb you must continue to read the route, unless you are very lucky. Some preview ideas will turn out to be incorrect. Don't panic just be creative.

How many climbers have fallen trying the same incorrect sequence over and over and over? If something feels like it is not working, relax and see other options. You may have to hand switch or even down-climb a bit to get back on track.

In general, the route setter tries to make a route without cruxes because the goal of the route is to separate the falling points of climbers; he doesn't want bottlenecks. If a move feels way out of character with the others, it may be an incorrect sequence.

Keep a good perspective of why you are at a comp, and a positive attitude. There are many comps, so always keeps your eyes open to learning.

Tony Yaniro is an internationally certified course-setter. Taken with permission from Climbing Magazine, February 1, 1996.