Rafting The Zambezi River

Rafting The Zambezi River

by Dr. Maurice John

Publication Date: September 2000

Since 1987, I've been traveling to South Africa for two weeks to attend an eye surgery meeting. Each visit I would take an extra week to explore and experience the southern half of Africa. In 1993, we decided to do a flyby and see Victoria Falls and check it off the list. We allowed about 18 hours and flew in one night after dark.

The next morning we arose early, walked to the Falls, and started the tour through the small rain forest that abutted the Zimbabwe side of the Falls. On the other side is Zambia. The falls were indeed spectacular. As we got to the end of the gorge, we looked down and could see tiny specs moving. Closer examination revealed rafters about 1,000 feet below us putting their rafts in the water. We discovered there was really quite a bit to do in Victoria Falls - not the least of which was some world class rafting.

My wife Jan and I returned to Victoria Falls in 1995 and went rafting with our friends Danie and Esmie Maritz from Benoni, South Africa. Our previous rafting experience had been in Buena Vista, Colorado with low water (and in retrospect, the most exciting rapid was about a class II). After receiving what were pretty good instructions, we climbed down into the gorge approximately 1,000 feet and received more training. At that point in time, I really didn't know the difference between a class I and class IV rapid. I also hadn't bothered to find out that we were about ready to embark on about 18 rapids - most all of which were class V!

There were eight of us in the raft. Our leader was in the middle handling two large oars. On the first rapid, I basically got my face blown off and swallowed about two glasses of water in half a second. Also, my sunglasses were gone forever. There were four rafts in our group, and all of them except one flipped at least twice. Flip really isn't the right word - you explode! At that point, we found out who had paid attention during the initial training session. All the rafters swam to one side of the raft. The leader climbed on top, flipped the raft, scurried in, and started pulling people in by their life jackets. Once you were pulled in, you started pulling in the other people and so on. A couple of world-class kayakers paddled around and picked up the occasional person who floated on down the river...which happened more than once.

We got to our first dip on the third rapid (the Devil's Toilet Bowl). I was in total shock and couldn't believe this was happening. Just before we stopped for lunch, we came upon a class VI rapid. Everybody got out of the rafts and carried them around the rapid. Then we all got on the edge and watched a couple of kayakers attack the rapid. Needless to say, they were incredible.

After a surprisingly excellent lunch, we continued our journey. On the final rapid (#18), which is called Oblivion, we flipped again. By this time it was getting rather hot, and since we were now old pros, we actually enjoyed the dip. Back in the raft it was time to end our journey but not our adventure. The next thing we had to do was climb up a rickety, stick-like contraption almost 1,000 feet out of the gorge. If you missed a step, it would be easy to slip through and break an ankle. The climb was truly exhausting, but at the top there were cold drinks waiting.

While waiting for the truck, we went over to the edge and looked at the last rapid (Oblivion) again. Eleven of the next twelve rafts flipped. What a day! What a day!

In 1998, Jan and I decided we wanted to let our friend Sally DiLaura experience the mighty Zambezi. When we attended the eye meeting the previous year we had heard that they had a new activity on the river. You could body board through the first four rapids and then finish off the rest of the rapids in the usual way. Being rather naive, we decided to give it a go.

We traveled from Tanzania again to Victoria Falls. This time we went to the Zambian side, got in a partial wet-suit, and received instructions on body boarding. Below the falls the Zambezi river is fast moving, so they give you instructions on how to avoid the rocks. They also tell you to stay in the middle of the river to avoid the crocodiles! Crocodiles? The first time we rafted they didn't mention the crocodiles - because of the fast moving water, they had not been a problem. But this time the water was a bit slower, and they decided the crocodiles could be a problem.

Body boarding the Zambezi requires a good grip and some endurance. The boards are about 2 1/2 feet wide and 3 to 3 1/2 feet long. Going through the rapids is a rush like most people probably can't imagine. However, we got gypped a bit. They wouldn't let us go through on one rapid because they had seen a big croc there the day before. They took us through the rapid on a raft. After body boarding four rapids, we went back to standard rafting the class V rapids. And yes, we did see a couple of big crocodiles on the bank.

In the evening you can go to one of the local bars and see a video of your trip. If you choose to buy it, and you really must, they will include some highlight films of other rafting trips that show incredible flips to great music. We have two of these videos, and when people see them, they are usually speechless.

Prices in Southern Africa are quite reasonable to almost cheap for Americans. Southern Africa is still relatively a safe place to go, but you have to stay alert. The water is relatively warm and most of the time high enough that you really won't have to worry about rocks. After our first trip, the Maritz's sent us a clipping where two people had died two weeks after we were there. In that part of the world they aren't too worried about getting sued. Would I do it again? You bet! The experience was incredible. Besides, I have to keep up with Jan.

Rafting Trip Options

You have two options in choosing your rafting trip. We could have our guide sit back while everyone else sat on the edges oaring with paddles. The second option is to have the guide sit in the middle guiding with two large oars, while the passengers hang onto the edges and lean left, right, or forward as commanded. On trips where you are least likely to flip, paddling is okay and takes care of the testosterone requirements. When you are likely to flip, the paddles suddenly become weapons in inexperienced hands. On our two Zambezi rafting trips, one lady suffered a broken nose; another a black eye; and another was taken to the hospital with a concussion. They were all in rafts where the participants paddled. Since my goal was to have a great time, but get back in one piece, I stayed out of the paddling boats.

Dr. Maurice John of the John Kenyon Eye Center is an international recognized cataract and refractive/LASIK surgeon with clinics in Louisville and Elizabethtown, KY and Jeffersonville, IN.