The Russell Fork River - "Beast of the East"

The Russell Fork River

"Beast of the East"

by Willie Johnson

Publication Date: November 1998

The kayaker, adrenaline pumping, eyed the large "hole" in the center of the rapid, as she visually replayed her route to avoid being eaten by El Horrendo, one of several Class V rapids on the Russell Fork River. Known as the "Beast of the East," the Russell Fork is an intense whitewater run that draws paddlers from across the United States.

Exhaling, she ferries across the top of the rapid, dodges the hole, "boofs" over a ten foot ledge, dropping into a white froth in which she and her boat briefly disappear...exhilaration, momentarily. She must attend to the next issue - another Class V rapid, "Climax!"

So goes the day of a Russell Fork paddler. The Russell Fork River (one of the Levisa Fork of the Big Sandy River) flows through a magnificent gorge. Referred to as the Grand Canyon of the East, The river is located in the Breaks Interstate Park. The state park whose boundaries lie in both Kentucky and Virginia is between Elkhorn City, KY and Haysi, VA. The "Breaks" are a rugged section of Pine Mountains created about 260 million years ago when the Appalachian Mountains were the final phrase. Erosion has cut a deep chasm (1,000-2,000 feet deep) in the mountains, creating an incredible gorge with a river that is gaining a national reputation among whitewater paddlers.

Viewed as an "expert only" run, the Russell Fork River is an eight mile, technical, Class III-V run (depending on water level) with a gradient of 106 feet per mile. The "Gorge" section of the river is about two-and-a-half miles dropping at an incredible 200 feet per mile - no place for the faint of heart, or a sometimes "roll." There are several Class V rapids that somewhat divert your attention from the spectacular scenery. Viewing the geological formations and beautiful fall colors is better done after the run.

Water (approximately 800 - 100 cfs) is released from the John P. Flannagan Dam on weekends (Saturday and Sunday) in October. Some paddlers run the river at much lower levels (down to 300 cfs) in the summer. There are also two other sections of the river - the upper section (Class II-IV) and the lower section (Class I-III) - for novice and beginning paddlers.

According to Laueatte Dale, the Russell Fork was first commercially rafted in 1987. Laueatte, with her husband Channing, runs the Russell Fork Expeditions rafting company on the Russell Fork and other Class IV-V rivers in the area. Currently, there are three of four commercial raft companies that run the Russell Fork. All the companies require guests to have significant previous whitewater experience before "experiencing the Russell Fork." Dale thinks the river has gotten a bad rap for being "dangerous." She points out that only three whitewater-related deaths have occurred on the river since 1987 according to the Army Corps of Engineers records. Statistics aside, even the most expert paddlers respect the river.

As I approached the put-in, "Garden Hole," for the Gorge run, a paddler stood motionless starring into the river. Josh, a first timer from Colorado (I spotted license plates from 14 states), was "paying his respects to the river." When asked to elaborate, Josh simply replied, "This river demands respect." Brent Austin, a paddler with the Blue Grass Wildwater Association in Lexington, KY has paddled the river at different water levels. Brent thinks the river is "relatively safe" as difficult whitewater goes. Other rivers such as sections of the Green River in Tennessee are more difficult and dangerous in Brent's view. A small change in water level can make a large difference in the difficulty and danger level on this river.

Brent was attending the fourth annual Russell Fork River Rendezvous, a three-day gathering of paddlers, hikers, mountain bikers, climbers, and anyone who has an interest in the river. The rendezvous costs $10.00 for three days of camping, music, fun, and of course, "riding the river" as the locals say river preservation is an issue with everyone. The event has no corporate sponsors or vendors, and all proceeds go to river conservation.

According to Brent, the most significant threat to the Russell Fork watershed is exploration and mining for methane gas that is sold commercially. Reportedly, mining of methane gas can result in draining water that residents use for drinking from wells and potentially the river itself. The process involves the use of hydrochloric acid that can leach into groundwater, and thus the river. Other threats to the river include logging, deep-shaft mining, and a proposed dam. The Russell Fork is currently under consideration for a "Wild and Scenic" study.

This is the fourth year for the Russell Fork Race - a somewhat loosely organized race through the Gorge section of the river. Chris Hipgrave, who has won the race the last two years, is paddling a down-river boat this year. Paddlers may enter either of three categories, down-river, K-1 (one person kayak), or C-1 (one person decked canoe). The fastest time through the Gorge wins the race. It is difficult for me to imagine "racing" down this river when many paddlers consider getting to the take-out with all body parts in tact as the main issue.

The tourism departments of Kentucky and Virginia are attempting to publicize the area and river. Most paddlers report the locals are friendly and welcome the business. A nationally known media organization, Appalshop, is producing a film on the area. Tom Hansell, who is producing the documentary, is looking at the cultural and national history, economics, and recreational aspects of the river. The film is scheduled to air on Kentucky Educational TV. The state park staff report a gradual increase in river usage since they first started keeping records four to five years ago. Up to 200 paddlers may run the river daily on weekends in October.

After eating dinner at the park lodge, which overlooks the gorge, I drove out of the park as a mist of rain began to fall. I wondered how many brave souls would brave the "Beast of the East" tomorrowand if the River Gods would be watching over them.